Description
Though the chef is Mexican, he jumps from the Sierra Madre to the
Pyrenees to the Rio Grande to combine French, Spanish, American and Mexican
traditions into one of the better cafes around. This is the type of place
where crepes exist alongside huevos rancheros, where you're as apt to enjoy
a croque monsieur (like eating a flavored pillow, it is) as a beef dip,
where "tortilla" can mean the rolled-up vessel of the Aztecs or the Spanish
version, a kind of potato-egg pancake. More than novelty, nearly all the
attempts at transcontinental and trans-Atlantic fusion work wonderfully.
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