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There are many enjoyable traditional Taiwanese dishes at Andy's, located not far from the intriguingly named Wiggles gentlemen's club. If you're not Taiwanese or Chinese, you'll most likely be given the English menu, which buries the good stuff under copious amounts of sweet-and-sour chicken. Ask for the Taiwanese menu, which is mostly in English and features an encyclopedic list of Taiwanese and Sichuan dishes. A good place to start is the oyster pancake--a plate-sized, jiggly disk made of egg, water spinach, oysters, and translucent sweet potato starch, all doused in a sweet chile sauce. The bivalves are ubiquitous at Andy's. An order of fried baby oysters nets you about a dozen small, but juicy, specimens. A traditional Taiwanese oyster soup arrives in a big bowl filled with thick, beige broth and a generous twirl of noodles, harboring oysters and chewy bits of pork intestine.
I have great respect for people who enjoy stinky tofu—but I'd rather be elsewhere while they're enjoying it. The fermented delicacy is made by soaking the tofu in a broth that often includes unlovely ingredients like sour milk and meat. It's one... More »
We're going to step out of the American hamburger arms race in favor of a burger from another mother. Gua bao is identified on the menu at Andy's Seafood and Grill as a "Taiwanese hamburger." It's actually the mantou-wrapped pork bun that many people might recognize from Momofuku (but it was certainly not invented there). This superior burger is made from steamy, sweetish mantou, folded around a braised slab of pork belly, along with crushed peanuts and pickled cucumber. There are several... More »
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