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Run by one of the city's most talented chefs, Ethan Stowell, Anchovies and Olives is an intimate Capitol Hill spot that offers inventive, impeccably prepared food without the pomp of fussy downtown establishments. Distinguishing it from the other stars in Stowell's burgeoning restaurant empire, the focus here is on seafood, often showcased in unusual ways: halibut with zucchini flowers, mackerel with wild mushrooms, and bluefish with soft-boiled eggs. But there's simplicity, too, in Stowell's style, and the best dishes, like giant scallops lightly sautéed, manage to convey both purity and complexity. Come during the restaurant's version of happy hour, renamed power hour, and you can treat yourself to raw oysters for a buck apiece.
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