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Grumps carp that the Cordúa brothers' extraterrestrial rain-forest fantasia is overrated, but it's hard to argue against Chicago wonderboy Jordan Mozer's cutting-edge decor, or -- when the largely reliable kitchen is on -- the creative Pan-American menu. Captivating quail taquitos, potato-crusted squid, shrimp over corn fettuccine and voluptuous coconut ice cream show Américas at its finest, which is very fine indeed.
Speaking off the toque: Michael Cordúa is the executive chef and owner of Américas [1800 Post Oak Boulevard, (713)961-1492], Amazon Grill [1800 Post Oak Boulevard, (713)599-0020] and Churrascos [9705 Westheimer, (713)952-1988; 2055 Westheimer,... More »
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