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Altura means "on high," which is roughly the height of the pedestal on which local food lovers have put this Italian-accented shrine to seasonality from chef Nathan Lockwood. Many of the small plates here support the accolades, including a terrific tuna heart pasta and perfectly-grilled steak. But the restaurant presents a classic sum-of-its parts situation, in which what's most memorable is the exquisite service, the cozy room and the conversations which inevitably unfold over a multi-coursed dinner that takes hours to complete.
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