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Occupying the former Raymund's space, and retaining something of its Tudor cottage feel, Allswell is the project of Spotted Pig alum Nate Smith. Sawing away at the local and sustainable violin, he explores the frontiers of gastropubbery, with wildly inventive dishes, such as whole pig ear fried and presented with a salad as an antidote to all that porcine luxuriance; and lamb's tongue on toast with kumquat marmalade. But don't worry, these things are more normal tasting than you might expect, and the short menu changes daily, so if you go on one occasion and don't like it, it will be completely different the next. The desserts, via Smith's wife Sophie Kamin, are as wonderful as the savory fare.
This week, Tejal Rao tries the pasta and polenta boards at L'Apicio, the new "glassy cathedral" on the Bowery from partners Gabe Thompson and Joe Campanale, where Rao says if you added a parking lot "... More »
At Boukies: What could be better than a rack of grilled lamb chops bolstered with lemon potatoes? Lamb is the new beef, and Brooklyn is its greatest borough. Whether cooked well-done or rare; barbec... More »
Carrying the gastropub banner forth into battle, Spotted Pig alumnus Nate Smith didn't have much of a chance at the Dean Street Tavern massacre. Early this year, his one-month tenure as chef there ended in a dispute with the management over a... More »
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