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This palace of fried seafood leapfrogged over 125th Street recently into glamorous new digs. Thankfully, the fried whiting sandwich is as good as ever: three crisp, lightly breaded fillets deposited on white or whole wheat; squirt on the sauce from the phalanx of bottles on the counter. Hint: The tartar and the Tabasco make a lovely pair. At the new location, catfish plays a bigger role, and there are a couple of whole fried fish available, including porgy and pink snapper. A good number of the fish are local and sustainable, and there"s a upstairs dining room that can accommodate just about any size crowd. Note: Chicken wings are particularly large and luscious.
Descended from a beloved shoebox across the street, once staffed by a fundraising crew from a Bronx church, the most recent incarnation of A Taste of Seafood is a spacious, bi-level place that verges on the luxurious, plastered with all sorts of maritime geegaws. Luckily, the quality of the fried whiting (or pick catfish, if you must) remains unsurpassed, so carefully breaded and fried that each individual fillet belongs in the Fish Fry Hall of Fame. When heaped on whole-wheat bread with a... More »
Harlem's beloved fish shack was closed for a long time, but A TASTE OF SEAFOOD reopened recently to universal huzzahs, though now the second half of the name--"Servants of God"--seems to have gone missing. Stand politely in line for the galaxy's best whiting fillets, served three to a sandwich. More »
Deep-frying whiting is an evolved art form at Servants of God/A Taste of Seafood, where the chef gyrates between a bank of bubbling Fry-O-Lators and keeps an eye on each one, whether it holds whiting fillets, french fries, shrimp, or the wonderful chicken wings that take an extra 15 minutes to cook. The line out the door means there often isn't an empty seat inside, but heck, I'd eat this great fish standing on one leg on a cold day in January. More »
Fried fish has long been a big deal in Harlem. As African-Americans from Georgia and the Carolinas migrated northward to New York in the first half of the 20th century, they brought their love of catfish with them. But finding no precise... More »
If you've ever wondered what it feels like to be a sardine, drop by the corner of Madison Avenue and 125th Street on a sunny winter afternoon. Occupying a prime location still unclaimed by Starbucks or the Body Shop, the timeworn storefront... More »
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