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A bake is a homemade roll stuffed with a smoked or otherwise cured fish salad. A doubles is a pair of tiny fried flatbreads smeared with a spread of curried chickpeas. How can things so simple be so supremely delicious? This Trinidadian breakfast and lunch stall is invariably thronged with admirers willing to stand in line for as long as 20 minutes to get a doubles, a bake, or a sadhu bake, the latter a fish sandwich made with a larger and less greasy bread cut into quarters, and recommended only if you insist on keeping your mitts clean.
Wending its way northward through Crown Heights and Bed-Stuy, Nostrand Avenue rocks to an island beat. The busy thoroughfare is lined with bakeries offering cassava pone and pine tart; fish stands hawking croakers, porgies, grunts, and jacks; and... More »
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