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Founded by San Francisco pizzaiolo Tony Gemignani, 900 Degrees undertakes the substantial task of re-creating all the world's pizzas on a single premises. A hopeless objective? Probably, but some of the pizzas are really good, including those intended to replicate the true pies of Naples. Thus, the margherita is the best selection, and some of the "Tomato Pies" are pretty good, too: As a friend said, "They're like Domino's on a very good day." Study the menu carefully before you go, because the number of choices is bewildering. Our advice: Stay away from the Roman pies, which are way too big, and often feature a pre-set combination of ingredients you won't like. And go for the Diavola (chili oil, soppressata, and two cheeses) in the Italian Brick Oven section of the menu.
In retrospect, the onrush of restaurateurs into the pizza biz was entirely predictable. We all know the reason for it: The ingredients are cheap and the mark-ups spectacular. No sooner had small and ridiculously expensive Neapolitan pies... More »
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