Description
Definitely order from the menu addendum, where four entrées-including two
steaks, the pork chop and the seabass-are listed in a separate scrap of
paper. The seabass might just be the best seafood dish on a street that also
includes the beloved Walt's Wharf. The first bite has the pleasurable
crackle when a piece of fish is properly cauterized to crispness in a hot
pan. Everything else on the plate was just as indispensable, from the soft,
homey goodness of the puréed cauliflower that became the textural foil to
the acid of the tarragon-roasted tomatoes and wilted spinach that balanced
the richness. Sandwiches like the meat loaf and the grilled cheese with
short rib read as if they're actually entrées stuffed between bread. The
short rib, by the way, is seen again in big chunks that are mixed with sour
cream and beef gravy to coat twirly egg noodles for a stroganoff that
arrives hot and fuming steam like Krakatoa. And then there's the fried
Brussels sprouts, an appetizer that will, once and for all, negate the
healthiness of the once good-for-you veggie with bacon, the sprouts' bitter
edge transformed into an addictive, browned sweetness.
