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Longevity is an important word in any restaurateur's lexicon. Every house wants to see its ten-year anniversary in the rearview; most never get there. But 240 Union -- the New American outpost founded in 1989 by Michael Coughlin, Noel Cunningham and chef Matt Franklin -- is still going strong, because this restaurant has never just settled. Food this good doesn't come from coasting; it results when the crew comes to the grills fresh every night, stepping up to each shift as though it were the first one.
The kitchen at 240 Union depends heavily on the smarts of its cooks and its mesquite grills -- grills that were a symbol of the California Cuisine "revolution" of the mid-'80s -- and that's appropriate, because a lot of 240 Union's menu reflects both a fierce, sometimes funny intelligence and the slow, natural tempering of the Californian ideals of seasonality, center-plate proteins and locals-only bravado. So on the one hand, you have Colorado lamb chops glazed in apricot mustard, an... More »
Don't throw this one back: Roasted to order in a brick oven, 240 Union's fish is all crispy, sea-salty, lemon-tart skin and moist, silky flesh that melts in your mouth. The price and type of fish change with the seasons -- sometimes it's a snapper that's big enough for two, sometimes it's a sea bass you won't want to share -- but it's always a keeper. Although 240 Union may have other fish to fry, we toast the roast. More »
Most of the wines at 240 Union come in between $20 and $30, and many cost even less, making this comfortably chic eatery even more of a good thing. The savvy cooking of chef/part-owner Matthew Franklin is fine on its own, but it's even better paired with fine wines. Select from such interesting compilations as "Cutting Edge" or "Nothing Boring," play it safe with a "Comfort Zone" red, or just pick at whim. Your glass is bound to be more than half full -- and at a fair price. More »
If 240 Union (see review) is a model for how a restaurant makes it into middle age, then Steak au Poivre (in the old, subterranean Manhattan Grill space at 231 Milwaukee Street) exemplifies why so few places reach an age where they can be called... More »
Sitting in the calm, cool darkness, bathed in the blue submarine glow of the television, I see them coming. Infomercials, spreading like kudzu across the stations, filling those weird hours between 3 a.m. and dawn. Paid programming: the last... More »
In spring, some young restaurateurs' thoughts turn to fancy creations they can make out of asparagus and baby peas. But the sophisticated 240 Union doesn't stop there. Chef Matthew Franklin pulls from his extensive experience to create elaborate... More »
Wine, wine, wine: Simon F. Cocks, part-owner of Enoteca LoDo, apparently popped his cork when I expressed surprise that the Readers' Choice award for Best Wine List--Price in the June 27 Best of Denver issue went to Enoteca (Mouthing Off, July... More »
In an industry where one out of every four new ventures goes belly-up within the first two years, Noel Cunningham has beaten the odds. He has not one, but three successful restaurants: Strings, Ciao! Baby and 240 Union. "Actually, I don't... More »
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