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Chef Jason Neroni's latest adventure is a staid Village bistro with wonderful views of Sixth Avenue and interesting art on the walls (plus a newly opened sidewalk seating area). Despite the eclectic menu, his interest in pork and Spanish food prevails. Baked feta is the best bar snack; striped bass the best fish (sided with oddball items like seckle pear, celeriac, and trumpet mushrooms); squid-ink agnolotti the best pasta; and pork confit with moustarda the best meat main (no surprise here). For dating couples, the roast chicken for two, deposited on a lively bread salad the way they do it in San Francisco at Zuni Café, is highly recommended.
Let's begin with the most scrumptious dish on the menu: a free-range chicken for two ($43)—a pullet, really, the tender young flesh marshaled in sienna-skinned fragments across an oblong heap of arugula. At the first forkful, the arugula seems... More »
RobtS: The designation "New American" is absurd because it's really a catch-all for all sorts of creative food that lacks one particular ethnic influence. SarahDG: Seconded. RobtS: Where the rubber meets the road is in places designated as bistros. While Joseph Leonard is clearly a French bistro, the status of Watty & Meg is uncertain. It flaunts its regional borrowings--shrimp and grits, for example--but the bedrock of the menu is clearly French, like red wine reductions in... More »
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